Friday, May 1, 2009

Sharper Photos might be just around the corner for you!

Have you been noticing that your pictures are not sharp? They have this distracting sort of softness and blur? Well, 90% of the time, its NOT your camera. Its the person behind it, you.
That's right, most of the times, you are the reason for the picture not turning out sharp. When i say this, i mean that the picture might look OK on the camera screen, but on the computer screen or at 100% zoom, you will notice that its not sharp. The reason: Camera Shake!!

How to defeat camera shake? Well, you have to follow certain procedures while shooting in shake-vulnerable situations. Read on to find out what you can do to avoid camera shake.
  • Everyone has shaky hands. You only need to control the amount of shake and completely avoid it.
  • Shake is more visible/obvious at shutter speeds lesser than (slower than) 1/80 for normal hand shake.
  • As a general thumb rule, keep your shutter speed at a minimum of the reciprocal of your focal length. Example, if you are shooting with an 18-55 lens at 55mm, then make sure you shoot at shutter speeds of 1/60 or faster. If you are shooting at 200mm, shoot at 1/200 or faster. This really works. Don't be afraid to increase ISO until you can shoot at fast speeds. Else get a fast lens.
  • By all means get lenses with VR (Vibration Reduction). They really work well.
  • Improve your shooting posture if you still get shake. Brace your left elbow against your chest and cradle the camera firmly with the left hand. Hold the camera firmly against your face with the right hand. Don't be afraid to stick the camera right into your face, it helps!
  • Finally, hold your breath when you click! This helps the upper body remain still.
  • If your camera has continuous shooting mode, then use it!! Take a couple of shots continuously and pick the sharpest one.
  • Always, check the picture at 100% zoom on your camera screen or computer for camera shake/blur, because you don't usually notice it at reduced size.
Those are the basic guidelines to reduce camera shake and hence get sharper pictures.

Wednesday, April 15, 2009

adityaprabhu.com

Hey all! Just registered my very own web page finally today! Its currently under construction. But until its done, you can relax and enjoy a cool sideshow of my photos by visiting the website!!

Visit: www.adityaprabhu.com

Also, i'm thinking of moving to Wordpress blogs from here since its more powerful.
Thanks!!

Tuesday, April 14, 2009

Goodbye D40. Hello Nikon D5000 !


Today Nikon finally launched the new D5000! It replaces the D40/D60 and is the younger brother of the D90. It looks promising with 12.3 MP and 720p HD video, not to mention the 180 deg tilting LCD! The performance should be as good as the D90/D300 with only loss of some convenience features like absence of WB, ISO and QUAL shortcut buttons on the back/top, AF Settings, etc. Here are some links to check it out for yourself:
DP Review, Nikon USA and the D5000 Micro-site.



As an EDIT: This camera's price range makes this fall right in between the D60 and the D90. Hence its not exactly an alternative to the D40 which is still in production as of May 15th 2009.

Wednesday, April 8, 2009

An article on Photography

Hi! Here's an excellent article that i read on Ken Rockwell's website. Have a read, it will really help you understand the idea of photography in general. Reading articles teaches new stuff and helps improve techniques and compositions. Also, this particular article is about photography in general and how one should have a drive and passion towards it.

From Ken Rockwell's webpage:

"Photography is a means of expression, just like writing or painting.

Because photography is a means of expression, you have to have something to say, or your photos will suck.

Blindly pointing a camera and then expecting to whip it up later in Photoshop always results in crap.

Buying a Nikon D3X, Leica M7 or Canon 1Ds Mk III and expecting it to make sharp photos doesn't happen. Sharp photos come from sharp minds expressing ideas clearly.

You don't need to be able to express whatever you're trying to say in words or any other form, so long as whatever you are trying to express comes out in your photos. Composition is key.

Photography is an art which, like most art forms, happens to use some technology, but photography still has nothing to do with technology

Because some technology is involved, there are always legions of unseeing people who just don't get it. If you're not an artist, it's easy to miss the whole point and spend a lifetime reading books (and websites like this) fretting the tech details and buying too much equipment, instead of learning how to recognize what makes good photos and doing it.

Once you know the basics of how to adjust the camera you already own, no amount of technical knowledge or more equipment is going to make your photos any better.

I know. I was an engineer and the first twenty-three years of my photography sucked for exactly this reason. I could tell you every aspect of lens design, or explain bicubic convolution, sub-pixel processing and JPG quantization matrices 20 years ago, but I still had no idea what made a good photo.

I didn't start making good photos until I started looking at what was in my photos, instead of looking for how sharp they were. You can see everything you need to see in a photo from arm's length, or even as a thumbnail.

I finally learned to pay attention to what I liked or disliked about each photo, and doing more of what made photos I liked, and less or what made photos I didn't.

Photography is nothing but applying your powers of observation. No tech knowledge is needed today; all you need to know technically is if you want your photo darker or lighter (use your Exposure Compensation control) or a different color (use your White Balance control).

You need to recognize what you want and in which way to turn which knob to get you there, but everything else is art: where you are, where you point the camera, and what you're seeing.

Cameras and lenses all do the same thing. Don't even start to worry about lens sharpness until you can make great photos with what you already have. If you can't make great photos with a disposable camera, you can't make great photos until you learn to see.

Worse, if you're still learning (I know I still am), the more complex cameras throw up more adjustments and menus in the way of seeing great photos You'll get worse photos with better gear!

This is always obvious when people send me technically decent, but completely uninspired photos. If they weren't stoked when they took it, and if they don't get off on it being a good photo, no one else will either.

A friend once told me about how sickening it was to judge a photo contest. Numerous entries sucked hard. There was nothing in the photos, yet people thought that if they cranked up the saturation and sharpening in Photoshop enough that maybe the computer would find something interesting in these photos.

Nope. All it does is make these photos hurt our eyes. I get wild colors by pointing cameras at colorful things, and I get sharp photos by looking for hard cross-lighting.

Too many people need to lay off the saturation button and lay hard on their camera's DELETE button. If it sucks, it sucks and it's not getting any better. Try a different angle, a different point of view, different lighting or anything, but try it while you're still out shooting and can do something about it.

Don't shoot like your teacher. It becomes all too obvious who is learning from whom, and who was the teacher and who was the student.

Learn how to express yourself from your teachers. Learn the two trivial-to-set but critical-to-making-great-pictures basics of how to set your exposure compensation and white balance, and you're done learning technique. Let your teachers show you to express yourself more strongly, but remember that the key word is to express yourself.

Never try to copy your teacher's, or anyone's photos. Only they do what they do best. No one can be them better than they already are. You can be better at being yourself better than anyone, so follow your own impetus when making your photos. Shoot what you want, how you want it, but make it your own. Never try to do anything to impress anyone other than yourself.

So what makes good photos?

Whatever turns you on. Shoot, look at your work, and keep doing more of what you like.

If it's good, you'll see it. If you don't see what you like, try other things until you do. The key is to keep trying different things, not improve on something you dislike.

I found that my favorite work is what I shoot as day turns into night, or back again.

I also discovered that even though I shoot everything, the shots I show are almost always shot with my widest lens. Now I'll often go out with just an utrawide lens, and leave the other junk locked up.

Don't do what you've seen others do. Only do what you want to do. Be yourself; not someone else. "

Monday, April 6, 2009

Photoshop Tutorial 01: Watermarking!


Hey shutterbugs! So you guys clicked some cool pictures and you want to put your ID on it, what do you do? Watermark your photos!!

First, some info: (Skip if you are in a hurry!) Visible Watermarking is a process of placing your logo, signature or contact info or just your name on a picture to digitally secure your photograph, usually irreversibly, from theft. It is usually mistaken with a digital signature, which on the other hand is actually a logo or sign that is placed at the border of a photo to identify the author or creator.
Invisible Watermarking is a process of irreversibly embedding Copyright information into a digital photo. It is not visible on the picture itself, but can be detected via watermark detectors. All DSLRs have an option to embed the Author info, copyright info and other custom text into each and every file that comes out of it. So if you plan to steal a photo, you'll need a good lawyer! ;)

OK, now to the tutorial! Yes, this is officially the first tutorial that I'm posting. I always though I'll make one, but a few friends asked for this one, so here you go people. Note that this requires basic knowledge of Adobe Photoshop or whatever image editing software you are used to. There are loads of tutorials to learn photoshop basics. Just remember the magic word: "GOOGLE".

Lets begin
:

You will need :
  1. Photo editing software. I prefer Adobe Photoshop and i will be using this software for all my tutorials.
  2. A photo! Duh!
  3. Some good looking fonts!
  4. Artistic and Aesthetic Sense
Step 1:
Load up a copy of your photo on Photoshop (PS). Watermarking is the last phase of processing your photo for the web and you will need to have it at a low resolution of 72 dpi (dots per inch).
To do this, after you have finished all your color correction (CC), Levels, etc., in photoshop:
Go to Image > Image Size
In the window,
Uncheck "Resample Image" and set the resolution to 72.
Ckick OK.

Step 2:

Use the "Text Tool" to make a new text layer on the photo. Type whatever you want (for example: "WATERMARK 2009") with your font of choice and then hit CTRL+ENTER to confirm. Resize the layer using free transform (shortcut CTRL+T) and place it where ever you want. Hit ENTER. This is faster and more pracitcal than playing around with the font sizes.

Step 3:
In the "Layers" panel, your new text layer will be visible. Now, you can adjust its Opacity (which is the opposite of Transparency) to whatever value you like. This makes your layer transparent if set to 0% or completely opaque at 100%. Play with it till you are satisfied.
As an additional step change the layer's blending mode to "Overlay" from the drop down list. This makes the layer adopt the luminance from the layer beneath itself keeping the color from the same layer. (Click the following image to enlarge)



Step 4:
Save your work as usual as a JPEG.

Thats basically it and you're done.
This is the very basic stuff you need to know and the rest you can experiment yourself.

Tips and Advanced Stuff:
  • Always make a copy of your photos before you edit them. I have copies of all orignals and the edited ones in two different sizes (one for the web and one for printing).
  • If you want to put this: © symbol, the easiest way is to type ALT+0169 on a Windows PC.
  • As an advanced step, you can add dropshadow or glow to your text layer, but remember it should not distract the viewer from enjoying your photo.
  • Still advanced, if you have a logo or a text layer that you use often, make sure the background is transparent (delete the background layer) and then you can convert the text/logo layer into a "Smart Object". You can later import this smart object into any photo via the Import option. Thats what i do to watermark my photos with my logo. Its so quick it takes around 10 seconds to watermark once this is done.
If you guys have any questions or issues, leave a comment and i will try my best to help. As usual, i do this out of my interest to help people and i take my time out for it. So i hope you find this stuff useful. If it has helped you, leave a comment so i know!

Keep Clickin'!

Friday, March 27, 2009

My Workflow

Hi all, this is my basic photography workflow.
I shoot JPEG 90% of the time. I try to get the best results from the camera itself thereby reducing post processing work.
So, firstly, i have setup Adobe Lightroom to import my photos as soon as my camera/memory card is connected to the pc. Also, i have set LR to import photos into new folders named according to the date of shooting.
Once the photos are imported into LR, i start Flagging the ones that are fine (No shake, blur, colors are fine or not, other than the ones that i delete directly from the camera if they are not worth it at all) and rejecting the ones that are not. Then i have LR delete the rejected photos from the disk. After that i usually "Stack" similar shots together so the catalog looks neat and organized. This makes it easier to search for photos. Sometimes i also insert keywords into my photos like "sunset", "flowers" etc so its quick to search through those files. Thats all for the cataloging!

Next, if i'm editing a photo, i use LR's Develop module. I do all of my PP work here like Curves, Exposure, WB, Hue/Saturation, etc except Sharpening which if needed i do it Photoshop. Once the editing is done, i make a virtual copy in LR and export one of them to a smaller size for the web. I have setup LR to open the exported file in Photoshop automatically.
Once Photoshop opens with the exported file, i choose to sharpen it if i want. Finally, i add the logo/watermark and frame the picture. I save it with maximum quality compression and i'm done!

Thats pretty much it.

Happy Ugadi,
Have a great weekend!

Thursday, March 19, 2009

Photo: Gerbera Flower.



Click here to see the photo page on Flickr!

Picture Information:
Camera: Nikon D300
Lens: Nikon 55-200 AF-S DX Nikkor with VR.
Exposure mode: Aperture Priority
Focal Length: 160mm
Shutter speed: 1/60 seconds
Aperture: f/5.3
ISO Sensitivity: ISO 400
White Balance: Sunny/ Direct Sunlight, trimmed to one point warmer.

Post Processing:
Adobe Lightroom: Slight contrast increase via Curves.
Adobe Photoshop: Added my logo and exported to low resolution jpeg to suit the web.

Coyright: All rights reserved. ©Aditya Prabhu.